Houston... 31st October, 2001 -- Houston... We have liftoff!
Strange to be travelling on this Halloween of all Halloweens: the USA is on
high alert against potential Terrorism. We have just played a gig here in
Houston, for the PGA TOUR: a big success. Among those who played last night,
but who are NOT joining us on the trip South were John Cafferty, Mike Reno,
and Pat Travers (sadly, Pat is flying to tour in Europe with his own band).
So we are joined by "new boy" George Nastos, as additional guitarist. he
comes highly recommended from Glenn and Joe-Lynn, which is certainly good
enough for me! Also new to the origanisation, Fergie Frederikson will be
along to sing Toto's material (as he is eminently qualified to do so)
We were warned to check in early to avoid problems, so we were at the
airport almost 5 hours before departure time. 25 minutes after arriving at
the airport, I was standing just past security, having checked in, and gone
through, with more than 4 hours to kill time. Eventually, we were all
standing somewhat bemused, wondering how to kill so much time. Well, what
else, but shop and eat!
The flight was not full, which meant we were able to spread out a bit
througout the cabin. This took some of the sting out of the 10 hour flight.
David Osborn |
Thursday, November 1st, 2001 -- Gurauja
We were met in São Paulo by David Osborn, a man with extensive experience of
organising things on this continent. We were all bumdled onto a buge luxury
bus, and whisked (at an average speed of around 5 mph) through the crowded
streets of São Paulo, and out of town, towards Guaruja (emphasis on the LAST
syllable, by the way), a mere 60 miles South of the city. This is the first
holiday weekend of the year, and most of the city are on the road... hence
the slow progess!
As we headed through the mountains to the coast, mist and rain swirled round
the bus, and slowed the pace even more. 4 hours after leaving the airport,
we arrived at the hotel Casa Grande. A five star hotel, on the beach, with
a fabulous view (despite the gloomy weather).
Hotel Casa Grande |
The gig is not until 1am, so we endured the rough ride back to the hotel to
change, eat and generally freshen up. Midnight came around, and we were all
back in the lobby... looking like a Rock band!
As first nights on a ?tour? go, this was not a bad gig. A few loose ends,
but generally OK. The monitors were good for me, and I think for most of
the rest. Fergie sang his guts out, and the crowd loved it. The numbers at
the gig were a little disappointing, but thy made up for it in sheer
enthusiasm. Presumably to attract customers, they kept opening the back of
the stage onto the beach while we played, giving the somewhat bemused
onlookers a couple of minutes, and closing it again! At 2am there were a
surprising number of people still out there, too!
Saturday, November 3rd, 2001 ? São Paulo
Up early-ish, check out and back on our luxury bus for a trip back to the
biggest city in the world. The streets were relatively calm, this being the
first big holiday weekend of the year. There was a street market blocking
the entrance to the street our hotel was on, with the result that we had to
try and find a way round, through tiny back streets. The bus lumbered
along, squeezing round tight corners, barely making it past parked cars,
ripping branches off overhanging trees, and (on at least two occasions that
I noticed) taking down power lines! Basically, we caused all kinds of chaos
in a nice, middle class neighbourhood, until the clutch gave out on the bus,
and we all had to WALK the last 4 blocks to the hotel! David Osborn
organised a van to go and pick up our luggage from the stricken bus.
Blue Tree Towers |
The Blue Tree Towers is nice, modern high rise in a well-off district of
town... With restaurants and shops all around. About as good as it gets in
São Paulo! John Muldowney and I left early for the gig. I have the same
premier Signia kit as last night for tonight and tomorrow... a luxury I will
relish while I can. From there on out, it is a different kit every night,
and the quality of what I get will be in the lap of the Gods!
The Credicard Hall is actually pretty big! At full capacity, it must hold
10-12,000 people. In the configuration we?re using, with tables & chairs
laid out o the ground level, and the top balcony closed off, we can
probably fit 5,000 in here. Ticket sales have been slow, but we?re still
working on radio interviews, Press etc...
We have most of the same backline crew here, which is a relief, although
the monitors, and PA are different (worst luck for John). I set up the kit
in very little time, compared to yesterday.
By the end of sound check, the monitors were sounding good. Why is it then,
that these guys see fit to change everything between now and the gig? By the
time we went on stage, my levels were all different. I spent half the night
catching the monitor engineer?s eye, and asking for stuff to be turned up,
down... Whatever! I had a hard time... as a result, my concentration level
was not good, and I messed up a few things. The guys were understanding
enough, though. We?re all in this together.
Sunday, November, 4th, 2001 ?- São Paulo -- Credicard Hall
Boy, did I sleep! We had a late sound check today, just to try and check
levels, and get the engineer to keep them that way. John Muldowney told him
in no uncertain tones!
If last night was problematic, tonight?s gig was fabulous. Everything
really came together. They had changed the format of seating in front of the
stage, erected crash barriers and made a standing room only area directly in
front of us... So we played to a sea of people, all pressed against the
barriers. Seemed like a younger audience, too. We were elated coming off
stage. Just the shot in the arm we all needed. The crowd loved it. I think
we have made an impression on São Paulo.
Monday, November 5th, 2001 ?- São Paulo -- Day Off
Time to catch up on sleep, eat a bit and relax before the real onslaught ?
cross continental travel, immigration, gigs back to back with travel etc...
I am feeling really tired today. I did give it my all last night. Perhaps
my biggest mistake was not pacing myself. But I found that extra bit of
energy, and managed to keep going. Now, today, my body is reminding me! I
managed to work out in the gym, have a steam bath and a massage, which
helped a lot.
We were all due to meet in the lobby to go and eat BEEF tonight. Dave is
taking us to a place he knows. About 10 minutes before we were due to
leave, I decided to stay back, and just have a bit of sushi at the Japanese
place next door.
Tuesday, November 6th, 2001 ?- Lima, Peru -- Travel Day
UP at the crack of dawn (before actually ). Lobby call at 4am... OUCH. I was
more than a little tired. We bussed to the airport, checked in (as a group,
thank God), and boarded the plane for a 5 hour flight. I must admit, I slept
much of the way.
Sonesta El Olivar |
We arrived in Lima at 10am their time, having gained 3 hours. Back on US
East Coast time. Our bus trip through the chaotic streets of Lima were
instructive, to say the least.
The hotel, Sonesta El Olivar, is certainly the best one in town... heavily guarded, too.
Something of a relief. I haven't seen this much security since we were
escorted around in Bogota (Elton John - 1995), Colombia, in 3 Ford Broncos with
motorcycle outriders brandishing Ouzi Submachine guns and whistles, to get
people out of the way!!!
The public transportation system seems to consist of hundreds of 20-seat
buses, each with their route painted on the side. Somehow, people seem to
know where they are going, and how they get there... they jump on and off
these buses seemingly at random.
As I write, the key members of "Voices" are doing a Press conference. They
also have a number of different radio and TV interviews planned this
afternoon. After all of us getting up at 3.30am, to drive to the airport,
check in and fly for over 5 hours, I don't envy them. There are some
advantages to being part of the "backbone" after all! I have been able to
relax a little, access email, watch a bit of CNN news: generally catch up.
My Internet connection is dodgy, to say the least, from here. I have to
try several times before the familiar warbling tone, and then there's not
guarantee I can get on before it "times out". But at least I am on line.
I wish you all peace, happiness, and, above all, security.
Charlie Morgan, Lima Peru. November 6th, 2001
Wednesday, November 7th, 2001 ? Lima, Peru -- Jockey Club
I went early with John Muldowney, to the gig, only to discover that this
was an open-air concert, set at the horse track! They are hoping to sell
somewhere around 5-7,000 tickets. A number of the singers are off at radio
and TV shows, drumming up a frenzy of publicity .
The kit was actually pretty good, although the heads desperately needed
changing. I was informed that this was not an option, so I set about trying
to tune the toms to sound somewhere decent. The snare head has had several
repairs already, and here I put my foot down. Cesar, the owner of the kit,
actually went off and bought a new Evans head from one of his students, who
had been on holiday in the USA. I promised to keep I touch with Cesar, and
made a mental note to make up a "care package" of drum bits for him when I
got home. It is strange that something as mundane as drum accessories should
underline the deprivation that others in the World endure, but everything is
relative, I suppose. It is easy to see why so much of the so-called Third
World envies and despises the USA and Europe.
Everyone else arrived for soundcheck, and we managed to dial in some sort of
sound. The we headed back to the hotel, though the unbelievable rush hour
traffic!
When we returned to the gig, we had to run the gauntlet of the crowds
waiting to get in. It seems our publicity efforts were successful! People
were banging on the windows of the bus and making signs.
Despite the on stage sound being pretty dire (the monitor engineer had
changed everything since soundcheck, for reasons best known to himself), we
managed to present a great show to a packed house. They lapped it up, too.
After the gig, it was back to the hotel for as much sleep as we can get,
before heading off to La Paz, the highest capital city in the World, early
tomorrow.
Thursday, November, 8th, 2001 ? La Paz, Bolivia
We left the hotel a little after 7.45am.
As it happens, what with the traffic, and our equipment
having to go through customs checks plus all of us having to get through
passport control and get our departure taxes paid, we only just made the
flight by the skin of our teeth. From take-off, we went up and up, and
never really seemed to come down, even when we landed! None of the usual
braking and diving manoeuvres common with commercial air travel.
We were whisked through immigration and customs, and into a medical room
where we were given some "oxygen pills" (which will help us adapt to the
rarefied atmosphere). We were also given a few "hits" of oxygen. I am
certainly feeling the altitude. As soon as I got off the plane, I felt a
tightening of the chest, and my heart pounded in my chest. I am also
feeling somewhat nauseous. I hope this recedes.
We were bundled into several small buses, and set off along a road dotted with
native indians dressed in the traditional baggy dresses and hats, all
carrying huge packs (made of brightly colours cloth) on their backs.
As we drove on, we rounded a corner, and dropped into a huge bowl in the
mountains. Here was the city! The sight that greeted us was incredible.
Thousands of houses, huddled in a seemingly random fashion, across the steep
hillsides. In the bottom of the huge bowl there were a number of high-rise
buildings... All the signs of a modern metropolis, along with many signs of
an ancient civilisation... side by side.
Presidente Hotel |
We were dropped at the Presidente Hotel, the best hotel in town (somewhat
frayed about the edges, and way past its prime). I managed to lie down for a
few minutes, but the singers were all whisked into another Press conference.
I know we?re all tired and feeling the altitude.
John Muldowney and I took a taxi to the gig (an outdoor amphitheatre, set
into the hillside) to try and make sense of what was there. And this was not
much! The kit is owned by the drummer from the opening act, a half- German
man called Alex. The kit is Tama and of uncertain vintage, although I
suspect it to be from the early 1990?s. The heads appear to be of that age,
certainly! Unfortunately I have been told that there is no possibility
whatsoever of any replacements. So I set about trying to make the drums
sound halfway decent, whilst John set about trying to make SOMETHING out of
the sound system. It took a while for us to get anything useable out of what
was available. This is certainly a far-flung outpost of civilisation, and
many things we take for granted are not available. I made another mental
note to try and send some accessories this way, too! Not many people turned
up for soundcheck. I think we?re all feeling the ravages of an early
departure and altitude.
Somehow, John managed to get a sound of sorts out of the assortment of
equipment, despite blown speakers, bad amplifiers etc... The toms on the kit
are totally shot, and sound like 3 pilllows, but the kick and snare are
just about OK.
I managed to dash back to the hotel, shower, change and throw some
food down my throat before heading back to the gig.
The traffic approaching the amphitheatre was chaotic, which was a good
sign. Inside, the crowd was growing steadily.
Backstage was unbelievable. People without laminated backstage passes were
milling around everywhere... along with Police. Apparently we have been
visited by the Immigration Police, who need to see our work permits. Thank
goodness we are all legal and above board here.
Oxygen was much in evidence, as was the (perfectly legal) coca tea. I had a
couple of these, as I had been told that it would help open the blood
vessels a bit, and improve my oxygen intake. I must say, I was feeling
especially tired now. The opening act did a quick 30 minutes, and then we
were on...
The sound was even worse than it had been earlier, but the crowd were
appreciative, and we all did our best in the difficult circumstances.
Things started to really go wrong after half way... synthesisers blew up, my
drums started going in different directions, power cables were kicked out...
Glenn?s bass amp broke (he also broke a string ? a very rare occurrence).
We soldiered on regardless, with the crowd appreciating every note. There
must have been close to 7,000 people in the amphitheatre!
Amazingly enough, I made it through the gig with only one short blast of
oxygen. All my attempts at increasing my aerobic capacity prior to this trip
seem to have worked. I still have a splitting headache, though (apparently
quite normal for us sea-level dwellers).
After the gig, it took a while to get packed up and head back to the hotel,
for an all too short sleep . So far I have spent less than an hour at this
hotel!
Friday, November 9th, 2001 ?- Florinapolis -- Travel Day
Up and out at 5.15am. I ended up spending less than 6 hours in the Hotel
Presidente! We are all feeling more than a little the worse for wear.. with
two early morning starts and high altitude. None more so than David Osborn,
who looked like he had not slept for several days! His organisational
capabilities were severely hampered by this today, but we managed to make
it through the misty streets of La Paz, to the airport, where I was amazed
to see Military Police in pairs at 50 yard intervals along the road,
brandishing rifles in the air. We found out later that the President of
Bolivia was leaving on a trip, hence the security!
After checking in, we all went to the only place serving breakfast ? Burger
King! Yes, there it was, in the airport terminal, for all to see.
We were all relieved to leave la Paz. Without any time to acclimatise to the
altitude, this part of the trip had been a bit of a nightmare for us all.
With the kind of exertion involved with singing, drumming and playing Rock
music in general, we should have had at least 24 hours to relax before the
gig. As it is, we ended up spending less than 24 hours there!
As soon as the cabin pressurised, we felt instantly better! The rest of the
journey, via Santa Cruz, to São Paulo, and on to Florianopolis was long, We
arrived at family vacation hotel, set in a
Brazilian resort town, on an island off the coast, in torrential rain! The rooms are
bare-walled basic 2 bedroom self-catering apartments....NO room service, no
cable TV, no TV remotes...
Saturday, November 10th, 2001 ?- Florinapolis -- Lagoa Iate Club
I went to the gig early with John. This
is the worst kit so far. The tom sizes are 10", 12" and then 18"! The
difference in sizes was almost impossible to hide, even with judicious
tuning! The rest of the kit is OK, although I would have liked a new snare
head (my request was met with shaking heads).
Lexus Hotel |
The good news is that the monitor engineer, Alessandro, is really on the
case. He pays attention, knows what to do, and is quick about it.
After sound check, we went off to eat. We then endured the bone shaking
45 minute ride back to the hotel, where we had a
couple of hours to kill before heading back to the gig at half past Midnight!
On the road back, we encountered several huge traffic jams, mainly caused
by hundreds of partygoers swarming around the various night clubs in the
area. As a result, we got back to the gig after our scheduled start time,
and the crowd (packed house again) were getting impatient. We were hastily
hustled onto the stage before a riot broke out. The first time I hit my
snare drum, the wire snare (underneath) parted company with it?s restraining
mechanism, so I hastily replaced it with
the spare snare. Less than 2 minutes into the first song, this drum felt
weird, and I looked down to see a tear in the head, getting gradually
larger, So I screamed at one of the back line crew to replace the original
snare as quickly as possible, and in the meantime, I tried to play ROUND
the split! This is not as easy as it sounds, especially with a Rock band of
this type! Somehow, I managed to prevent the head from splitting any
further, and within 2 songs we had replaced the snare with the original one,
which sounded infinitely better, anyway! After that, I was able to settle
into the gig.
The crowd were crazy, lapping up everything we did. Everyone was on stage
working them into a frenzy. We played our asses off. Part of the reason for
this might have been that we discovered that this is going to be the last
gig. Tomorrow?s concert in Curitiba has been canceled, and we have a day off.
SO we gave it everything we had! I don?t remember
sweating quite that much in a long time. With the rain, the humidity is very
high here.
At the end of the gig we were all standing in the dressing room, when the
drapes that formed one wall ripped open. The crowd had discovered that this was
all that separated us from them. So we had to retreat to another room which
was more secure. We eventually got all our gear together and made it out to the vans in the
pouring rain. It was close to 5am when we made it back to the hotel.
Straight to bed for ME!
Sunday, November, 11th, 2001 ?- Florinapolis -- Day Off
Well, it?s over, for now... and all we have to do is hang out here for a
day, and then take various flights tomorrow, to return us to our respective
homes!
We all met in the evening ? just the VCR party, 11 of us ? for a fabulous
meal in a local restaurant. Now, THIS was the "best seafood in town". Thank
you, "Sabor Brasil" and all the staff. For a fraction of what we would have
paid in the USA, or England, we had an amazing banquet. And then Fergie
paid for all our food! What a guy! Larry made a short speech, and we all
had a great time. This was a fitting end to what has been a chaotic trip
across the South American continent. But we acquitted ourselves well
nevertheless.
Rock Forever!
Charlie Morgan
* Explains the focus on the drum equipment
